Sunday, July 27, 2008

Kili Tips

Just some thoughts for others contemplating a climb...

Things to Bring (In addition to the basic packing list suggested by the guidebooks)
  • Sunblock with SPF of at least 30 (Brent got burned using 15, even with re-application, I was using 70 the whole time)
  • Sunblock for your lips
  • Wet wipes (shower substitute, also good for cleaning your hands before dinner and even as a toilet paper substitute)
  • Extra sunglasses (in true KC style, I broke my first pair on our second day on the mountain and I was very glad to have a backup pair waiting for me - the sun on summit day is intense and you want a good pair of polarized glasses to protect your eyes)
  • Camel back (i almost didnt bring one because I read that the tube would freeze on summit day, but I was SO glad I had one. Its much easier to stay hydrated on the 6 other days youre hiking and i was able to avoid my tube freezing by blowing back into the tube - if theres no water in there, there's nothing to freeze (thanks for the tip JJ!)
  • Gaiters (these were awesome - kept my pants cleaner than they would have been, kept me warm, and of course, make an excellent fashion statement!)
  • Poles (sometimes these were a pain to carry, but there were definitely points, especially going down hill, when I was VERY glad I had them)
  • Balaclava (single best thing for keeping me warm on summit day)
  • Big garbage bags (we ended up putting all of our stuff in garbage bags inside our backpacks so that if it rained our clothes would stay dray - alternatively, you can get a raincover for the outside of your bag...)
  • Moleskin (or duct tape, which is what I ended up using to cover the awful blister I got on day one of the hike)
  • Small Camera (I only had my big Nikon SLR and wasnt able to pull it out of my backpack for all the beautiful shots I wanted to take along the way)
  • Gear that you can give away (when possible, try to bring stuff with you that you are willing to give away to the porters and guides at the end of the trip. it was a great feeling to be able to give them something in addition to the customary tips that we knew they would use and appreciate for a long time to come, and my bag was so much lighter for the rest of the trip! I ended up giving them a fleece, a fleece hat, balaclava, mittens, waterproof pants, wool socks and a nalgene.)
  • BIG day pack (you need to be able to fit your lunch, your waterproof coat and pants, camera, 4 liters of water and anything else you want to have with you during the day)
  • WARM sleeping bag (whether you bring your own or rent one from your climbing company, make sure its rated for environments less than 20 degrees celsius.)
  • Lots of plastic bags to organize your stuff in (you end up spending a lot of time packing and unpacking your stuff every evening and morning - this was much easier if everything was already organized into smaller bags)
  • Cards and other games (we had cards but wished we had brought some other game as well to fill the time we had in the mess tent - trivial pursuit or other trivia game might be a good option)
  • Camp shoes (something very comfy to wear other than your hiking boots for walking around camp - but not flip flops because you'll want to leave your socks on!)
Our Itinerary
  • Machame Route - Dont know what the other routes are like, but our guide definitely felt that the Machame route was much more beautiful and fun than the Marangu (Coca Cola) route
  • Number of Days - We were really happy with our decision to go for 7 days rather than the usual 6 days for the Machame route. Doing it in 6 days means that on summit day you have an incredibly long and hard hike that gets you into base camp at 5pm, then you only have a few hours to rest and eat dinner before you wake up to climb up for 7 hours to the top, then 3 hours back to base camp, then after resting another 3 hours down to the campsite for your last night. Im not sure we all would have made it (or at least not in such high spirits) if we hadnt had an extra day to get acclimated. Also, if you opt for 7 days and you find yourself doing really well, you can always shorten to 6 days. Its much harder to lengthen your trip (eg, food may run low and schedule conflicts for the guide's next tour).
  • Buffer Day - We were really thankful we had an extra day in Arusha before we left for Kili, not only because it gave our airline time to get our lost baggage to us (without which we couldnt have done the climb) but also because we were able to go through our gear with our guide and make sure we had everythign we needed, make a few last minute purchases in town and relax, catch up on sleep before starting our adventure
Here's our itinerary...
KILIMANJARO TREK - MACHAME ROUTE + SAFARI:
This is probably the most beautiful route up Kilimanjaro. All your equipment and supplies are portered and a cook prepares all your meals. Where accommodation on the Marangu route is in huts, the Machame route offers strictly camping tents only. This makes Machame (also referred to as the "Whiskey route") better suited to the slightly more adventurous hiker, rewarding him with a scenic splendor such as not seen on the Marangu route. From late afternoon sunsets at Shira, to the misty revelations of Kibo at the great Barranco Wall, the Machame route offers the adventurous hiker a stunning scenic "slide show" over 6 days. The Machame route is normally completed in a minimum of 6 days.

There is an added benefit to this, as you are afforded the most valuable commodity on the mountain - acclimatization. The Machame route takes you high to Lava Tower (4630m) on the day 3 and brings you down by nearly 700m for an overnight at Barranco camp (3950m). This is the secret to successful acclimatization.

Day 1, July 18, 2008: Arrival - Arusha
On arrival, transfer to SG Resort for the night sorting climbing gear in readiness for the next day's trek. Overnight at SG Resort on bed and breakfast.

Day 2, July 19, 2008: Arusha
Full day in Arusha on own leisure and relaxation. The day is spent preparing gear and equipment required for the next day's Kilimanjaro trek. Bed and breakfast accommodation is provided at SG Resort, B.
Day 3, July 20, 2008: Machame Gate (1490m) - Machame camp (2980m
Hiking time: 7 hours | Distance: About 18 km's | Habitat: Montane forest
Your day starts early with a briefing, followed by breakfast and a 45-minute drive from Moshi (910m) to the Machame village (1490m). The guides and porters prepare and pack the supplies and your equipment in the village. You will receive a lunch pack and you can also buy mineral water in the village. Depending on the condition of the road, it is possible to drive from the village to the Machame gate, but if not, the muddy 3 km walk will take about 1 hour to complete. After registering at the gate office, you start your ascent and enter the rain forest almost immediately. There is a strong possibility of rain in the forest, which will transform the trail into a very soggy, muddy and slippery experience. You will have a welcome lunch stop about half way and will reach the Machame camping area in the late afternoon.

Your porters (arriving at the camp site long before you) will have erected your tent on your arrival. In the evening the porters will boil drinking and washing water and the cook will prepare dinner, before you retire to your tent for the night. Night temperatures can already drop to freezing point at this campsite, B,L,D.

Day 4, July 21, 2008: Machame camp (2980m) - Shira camp (3840m)
Hiking time: 6 hours | Distance: About 9 km's | Habitat: Moorland
You rise early at Machame camp and after breakfast you climb an hour or so to the top of the forest and then for 2 hours at a gentler gradient through the moorland zone. After a short lunch and rest, you continue up a rocky ridge onto the Shira plateau. By now you will be able to see in an easterly direction, the Western Breach with its stunning glaciers. You are now due west of Kibo and after a short hike you will reach the Shira campsite at 3 840m. The porters will boil drinking and washing water, before serving dinner. The night at this exposed camp will even be colder
than the previous night, with temperatures dropping to well below freezing, B,L,D.

Day 5, July 22, 2008: Shira (3840m) - Lava Tower (4630m)-Barranco camp (3950m)
Hiking time: 7 hours | Distance: About 15 km's | Habitat: Semi desert
The route now turns east into a semi desert and rocky landscape surrounding Lava Tower, where you reach an altitude of 4630m after about a 5 hours walk. Lunch is served in a designated area before ascending the rocky scree path to Lava Tower (4630m). Definitely, the toughest day so far. It is normally around this point, where for the first time, some climbers will start to feel symptoms of breathlessness, irritability and headaches. After lunch you descent again by almost 680m to the Barranco camping area and after reaching the high altitude of 4600m at Lava Tower, the true acclimatisation benefit of this day becomes clear. This descent to Barranco camp takes about 2 hours and offers great opportunities to take some beautiful photographs of the Western Breach and Breach Wall. The camp is situated in a valley below the Breach and Great Barranco Wall, which should provide you with a memorable sunset while you wait for the preparation of your dinner, B,L,D.

Day 6: July 23, 2008: Barranco Hut to Karanga Valley (14,800')
Hike time: 3.5 hrs, Elevation change: +100 M
Estimated distance: 4km, Maximum elevation: 4590 M
Final elevation: 4000 M
From Barranco Hut we climb up through the edge of great Barranco 95percentage of that day walking will be on elevation of 4250m. We will break our day at Karanga valley campsite at elevation of 4,000m walking time is 4 to 5 hrs on this day.
Day 7: July 23, 2008: Karanga Valley to Barafu Hut (4,600m)
Hike time: 3.5 hrs, Elevation change: +600 M
Estimated distance: 4km, Final elevation: 4600 M
Today involves gaining a little more elevation, acclimatizing and resting for the summit attempt the next morning. This day will take us 4 to 6 hrs of walking.
The last water stop on the route is the Karranga Valley, as there is no water at Barafu camp. Barafu is the Swahili word for "ice" and it is a bleak and inhospitable camping area to spend the night. Totally exposed to the ever-present gales the tents are pitched on a narrow, stony, and dangerous ridge. Make sure that you familiarise yourself with the terrain before dark to avoid any accidents. The summit is now a further 1345m up and you will make the final ascent the same night. Prepare your equipment, ski stick and thermal clothing for your summit attempt. This should include the replacement of your headlamp and camera batteries and make sure you have a spare set available as well. To prevent freezing it will be wise to carry your water in a thermal flask. Go to bed at round about 19h00 and try to get some precious rest and sleep, B,L,D.

Day 8, July 25, 2008: SUMMIT ATTEMPT, Barafu camp (4550m) - Uhuru Peak (5895m)-Mweka (3100m)
Hiking time: 8 hours to reach Uhuru Peak | 7/8 hours to descend to Mweka |
Distance: About 7 km's ascent - 23 km's descent | Habitat: Stone scree and ice-capped summit
You will rise around 23h30, and after some tea and biscuits you shuffle off into the night. You will head in a northwesterly direction and ascend through heavy scree towards Stella Point on the crater rim. This 6-hour walk to Stella point is for many climbers, mentally and physically the most challenging on the route. At Stella Point (5685m) you will stop for a short rest and will be rewarded with the most magnificent sunrise you are ever likely to see (weather permitting). From Stella Point you will normally encounter snow all the way on your 2-hour ascent to Uhuru Peak. The time you will spend on the summit will depend on the weather conditions. Do not stop here for too long, as it will be extremely difficult to start again due to cold and fatigue. Enjoy your accomplishment and a day to remember for the rest of your life. The walk back to Barafu from the summit, takes about 3 hours. Here you will have a well earned but short rest and collect the rest of your gear, before heading down to Mweka hut (3100m). The route is not difficult and will take you down the rock and scree path into the moorland and eventually into the forest. The camp is situated in the upper forest and mist or rain can be expected in the late afternoon. Dinner and washing water will be prepared, B,L,D.

Day 9, July 26, 2008: Mweka camp (3100m) - Mweka Gate (1980m)
Hiking time: 3 hours | Distance: About 15 km's | Habitat: Forest
After an early and well-deserved breakfast, it is a short 3-hour and scenic hike back to the Park gate. At Mweka gate you sign your name and details in a register. This is also where successful climbers receive their summit certificates. Those climbers who reached Stella Point (5685m) are issued with green certificates and those who reached Uhuru Peak (5895m) receive gold certificates. From the Mweka Gate you will continue down into the Mweka village, normally a muddy 3 km (1 hour) hike. In the Mweka village you will be served a delicious hot lunch!! You now drive back to Arusha for a long over due hot shower, dinner and celebrations!! Overnight at SG Resort, B,L.

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